Semi, Demi, Or Permanent Hair Color: Which One Is Right for You?
Wondering what type of hair color you should use? Maybe you’ve heard that you should use a “demi permanent color”, but what does that actually mean? In this post I’m breaking down the differences between temporary, semi, demi, and permanent hair color, when to use them, and how long you can expect each one to last.
Each type of hair color has a specific purpose, and none is inherently better than the others. It’s all about choosing the right one for what you’re aiming to achieve, and I’m here to guide you through it.
What are the 4 types of hair color?
There are technically four different categories of hair color out there today. They’re divided up by how they alter the chemical composition of the hair, and how long they last for.
Keep in mind that the color of your hair and the porosity are also factors that will determine how long the color will last in your hair for.
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1. Temporary hair color
Temporary hair color refers to color that will fade out completely when the hair is shampooed. This color only coats the outer layer of the hair strand, or the cuticle.
You can also consider this type of hair color as a “stain”. It is merely staining the hair strand, not altering the chemical makeup of the hair at all.
That being said, some things used as temporary hair color can stain the hair the same way a white T-shirt can be stained with tomato sauce.
This is particularly common if you have blonde or extremely light hair, and use a very dark or bright temporary color on it. The color will likely eventually come out, but if you need some tips try the method in this blog post here.
These are usually used for an event, costume, or to help conceal gray hairs between salon appointments. Some examples of temporary hair color are:
How long it lasts: Until shampooed
2. Semi-permanent hair color
Semi-permanent color is the next step down towards longer lasting color. It is a deposit only color that does not alter the chemical composition of the hair.
This means that these hair colors are still not mixed with developer, but they will penetrate the cuticle of the hair and last longer than one shampoo. The length of time that they will last is dependent on the color you chose as well as the porosity of your hair.
If you have healthy hair and apply a dark semi-permanent color, it will likely last quite a while before fading out. But if you apply a pastel color onto damaged hair, it may fade out as quickly as the first or second shampoo.
The healthier your hair is, the longer the color will last. Also, the darker the semi-permanent color you are applying is, the longer it will last. So if longevity is your main concern here, start with a darker shade because it will lighten up with each shampoo.
Now when it comes to semi-permanent hair color, the hair needs to be light enough for the color to show up. So if your hair is dark, the only colors that will show up are colors that are darker than your hair. The lighter your hair is, the brighter and lighter the colors will show.
Semi-permanent hair colors are also not damaging, because they aren’t adjusting the composition of your hair.
These are my top recommendations for use at home when you want to color your hair yourself, because they’re the least risky.
Examples of semi-permanent hair color:
- Purple shampoo and conditioner
- Color depositing shampoos and conditioners
- Direct dyes
How long it lasts: On average 2-8 weeks
3. Demi-permanent hair color
Demi-permanent is the next step down the longevity scale. This type of hair color is the middle ground for semi-permanent and permanent hair color. They are also deposit only hair colors, meaning they can only go darker.
Demis are mixed with a very low volume developer (usually 5 volume or 1.5%) but they contain no ammonia. This means that they will penetrate the hair strand more than a semi-permanent color will, producing more longevity, but they won’t fully alter the chemical composition of the hair.
Demi-permanent color is a fantastic option for hair that just needs tone added. They aren’t damaging to the hair, but they do raise the cuticle slightly to deposit the color a little deeper. They’ll also wash out just about completely.
Now, demi permanent color does not provide full gray coverage since it isn’t altering the cortex (middle layer) of the hair strand. But they will mute some of the grays, especially if the hair is fine and not too resistant.
These are a good option for blending gray hair without causing a harsh line of demarcation at the roots as the hair grows out, toning, coloring the hair darker, and creating a root shadow.
Examples of demi-permanent hair color:
How long it lasts: On average 4-12 weeks
4. Permanent hair color
Finally, onto the big one! Permanent hair color means that it is permanently altering the hair strand. This type of color penetrates the hair forever. It will never go back to its natural virgin state again until it grows out and is cut off.
One thing that most people get confused about is that permanent hair color does not mean that the color doesn’t fade. It just means that the hair has been altered permanently.
When permanent color is applied to virgin hair, it adjusts the natural pigment and can lighten up to 4 levels, as well as deposits tone to the hair.
Keep in mind that once the hair has been colored with permanent hair color, bleach must be used to lighten it.
Permanent color is best used when looking for full gray coverage and lightening the hair. If you’re trying to decide if you should use traditional color, hi lift, or bleach, see my post here.
Some examples of permanent hair color are:
How long it lasts: The hair is permanently altered, but will begin fading at 3-12 weeks
Conclusion
There are four categories of hair color longevities. Temporary, semi-permanent, demi-permanent, and permanent.
Temporary hair colors fade completely out of the hair when it is shampooed. They only coat the outside of the cuticle of the hair. Think hair chalk and halloween color sprays.
Semi-permanent colors are still not mixed with developer, and last anywhere from 2-6 weeks or so. Think purple shampoo and direct dyes like manic panic.
Demi-permanent colors are in-between semi and permanent. They are mixed with a low developer and will last a bit longer than semi, but they do not penetrate the cortex of the hair. These colors will last anywhere from 4-12 weeks. Think toners, glosses, and gray blending.
Permanent hair colors permanently alter the chemical composition of the hair. They penetrate into the cortex changing the hair forever. After the hair has been colored with permanent dye, it will need to be bleached to be lightened.
If you have any further questions for me on the differences between semi, demi, or permanent, be sure to leave them for me in the comments. And as always, Have A Good Hair Day!
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