How To Use Hi Lift Hair Color

Have you ever considered using hi lift hair color instead of bleach? While hi lift doesn’t produce quite as much lift as bleach does, it can be a much safer alternative to using bleach in many scenarios! In this post I’m going to talk all about hi lift hair color so that you can determine if it will be a good option for you.

If you’re interested in learning the differences between hi lift, traditional hair color, and bleach, see my post here.

You can see my video demonstration using hi lift hair color on myself to touch up my very grown out roots below!

What is hi lift hair color?

Hi lift hair color is similar to traditional hair color in a tube, except it produces extra levels of lift for a brighter blonde. Most hair color will only produce 3 levels of lift, so much of the underlining warmth in the hair is still present.

Hi lift isn’t quite comparable to bleach as they are totally different chemicals, but it can be a much safer alternative if you meet the right qualifications to use it.

How many levels of lift does hi lift give?

While traditional hair color will produce up to 3 levels of lift, hi lift can give you between 4 and 5 levels of lift depending on the brand used and your hair type.

If you have coarse hair, expect to not see as much lift as someone with fine hair. This is because coarse hair is much wider in diameter typically needing a little more power to lighten than someone with a finer hair type.

To figure out if your hair is coarse, medium, or fine, see my post here.

What level should my hair be to use hi lift?

We typically recommend using hi lift if your hair is naturally a level 6 or lighter. These higher levels will lift nicely and get passed a lot of the underlining warmth present in the hair.

You can use hi lift if you have darker hair, but just keep in mind that the color will be warmer. You cannot get an ashier tone using hi lift color on a naturally darker level.

To learn more about the level system, see my post here.

Does hi lift lighten permanent hair color?

Unfortunately, hi lift does not lighten permanent hair color. The only thing that will lighten permanent hair color is bleach. This is because the cortex of the hair has been permanently altered. The permanent hair color pigment has been planted in the hair, and you’ll need a decolorizer (bleach) in order to remove it.

When it comes to demi-permanent hair color, the line is a little blurred. I have successfully used hi lift to lighten over demi-permanent color before, although most color lines will tell you that it won’t.

My opinion on the matter is that it all comes down to the brand and ingredients. If ammonia is used, you likely won’t be able to lighten the demi color out unless you use bleach. Either way, I suggest doing a test strand so you’re aware of what your results will be before you do the entire head.

To learn more about the differences between permanent, demi, and semi permanent hair color see my post here.

What developer should I use with hi lift?

The developer that you choose to use with hi lift will be based on the lift you’d like to achieve. Most of the time, we use 40 volume developer because this produces the most amount of lift. But if you or your client have very light hair already, you may opt to use a lower volume developer.

Most hi lift requires double the developer to the color, but not always. This means if you used 20 grams of color, you would need to use 40 grams of developer. This is where the term double 40 means if you’ve heard this used before.

How long should I leave hi lift color on?

It’s always best to follow the manufacturer’s directions when using any hair color product. But believe it or not, I actually let my hi lift color sit on longer than the recommend. I let hi lift color sit on myself and my clients for 1.5hrs. This is to get maximum results. The last 30 minutes may be overkill, but I do find that it is best to let it sit on this long.

Is hi lift safer than bleach?

The answer to this question is the number 1 reason why I adore hi lift, YES it is!

Personally I am allergic to bleach so I cannot put it all over my scalp. If I wanted to be all over platinum blonde, I had to put every hair into a foil as close to my scalp as I could get it without letting it touch my scalp. This was always a nightmare to do and I was risking my lift to be blonde!

But the good news is that I am not allergic to hi lift color since it is a completely different chemical, so I can use this without fear! (Keep in mind if you are allergic to traditional hair color, you may be allergic to hi lift as well. Perform a patch test on your wrist beforehand if this is a concern for you!)

Hi lift also doesn’t put you at much risk of hair breakage unless your hair is already very damaged. And even then, I have personally NEVER in my 16 years of doing hair seen hair breakage caused by hi lift hair color!

When to use hi lift

As I mentioned earlier, there are some scenarios where hi lift is a better option. You should consider using hi lift hair color if:

• You have virgin hair (or prior bleached hair with virgin roots)
• Your natural color is a level 6 or lighter
• You are allergic to bleach
• You would rather have a hint of warmth in your hair than damaged hair

When NOT to use hi lift

And as I mentioned, there are scenarios where you hi lift may not be the best option for you. You should consider other alternatives if:

• You have permanent hair color on your hair
• You have naturally dark hair (level 5 or darker)
• You are allergic to traditional hair color or ammonia
• You don’t want to see ANY warmth remaining in your blonde and are willing to sacrifice your hairs integrity for it

Conclusion

Hi lift hair color is a much safer alternative to using bleach. Its’ chemical structure is similar to that of traditional hair color, except it produces a few extra levels of lift.

Hi lift is best if used on virgin hair that is a level 6 or lighter. Any darker and there may still be significant underlining warmth left in the hair, leaving it an orange-y tone. It also will not lighten through permanent hair color, so if you’re looking to lighten up previously dyed hair then you’ll need to use bleach.

You’ll choose your developer strength based on the amount of lift that you need to achieve. If you’re going for maximum lift, you’ll likely use 40 volume developer. But if your natural color is already very light, you can likely get away with 20 volume. Most brands require double the developer to color ratio, but always check before mixing.

I usually let hi lift sit on a bit longer than the manufactures instructions, up to 1.5 hrs. This is because it won’t hurt the hair sitting on longer, and I like to make sure I am getting maximum results.

Leave a comment if you’ve tried hi lift hair color before and let me know your experience with it! And make sure you subscribe to make everyday a good hair day.