How To Style Thick And Coarse Hair

If you have thick and coarse hair, then you know that styling it can oftentimes be a struggle. You may have a hard time getting it to hold a curl, or even get frequent headaches from the pressure to your scalp.

In this post we’re going to talk about the best hairstyles for thick hair, the best routines to follow, and what hair products to use. To learn more about the anatomy of the hair to determine if your hair is thick, coarse, or both, see my post here.

What is the best hairstyle for thick and coarse hair?

When it comes to styling thick and coarse hair, your goal should be to remove bulk, moisturize, and soften it to make it more manageable. In the sections below we’ll break down how you can achieve this.

How can I make my thick and coarse hair more manageable?

Thick and coarse hair can be a lot to deal with. I have seen clients with so much hair that they actually have a hard time shampooing it themselves at home. With so much hair, the shampoo doesn’t always saturate all the way through. And if it does, it can be hard to get all of the shampoo out. This can cause scalp irritation if it’s not properly washed.

People with a lot of hair can also get headaches because their hair is so heavy and there’s a lot of pressure on their head, particularly if they wear it up frequently.

Coarse hair can also be hard to style because it is so strong. Straight coarse hair oftentimes won’t hold onto a curl very well.

Below, we’ll talk about how to reduce bulk and make your hair feel softer.

Are layers good for thick and coarse hair?

Layers, thinning, and texturizing are all necessary for thick hair. These hair cutting techniques will help to remove excess weight and bulk from your hair to get more movement as well as reduce pressure from your scalp.

Layers are exterior layers that you can physically see when you look at the hair cut. This means that the hair coming from the top section of the head is cut higher up than the hair coming from the sides and nape of the hair.

Thinning is where hair is removed all throughout the head. This is especially helpful if you are getting headaches or having trouble shampooing.

Texturizing is similar to thinning except it is done to the mids and ends of the hair, rather than all over. This is done to remove bulk from specific areas to help shape the hair. If the ends aren’t texturized, you may end up with the “triangle” look where your ends are bulky and the top of your hair is flat.

To learn more about layers, texturizing, and thinning, see my post here.

How can I make my coarse hair softer?

Believe it or not, coarse hair actually has the tendency to be more dry than the other hair types. This is because each individual hair strand contains a third layer called the medulla. Because of this, the hair needs extra moisturizing to penetrate this third layer.

Basic conditioners will only penetrate the second layer, the cortex. You’ll need a deep conditioning treatment to be sure the third layer is getting the moisture that it needs. (My favorite treatments will be listed below)

The best styling routine for thick and coarse hair

Step 1: I recommend starting with a “moisturizing” shampoo and conditioner. This will help to ensure that inner layer is getting the moisture it needs so the hair doesn’t become dry and crunchy.

Step 2: You should follow your regular conditioner with a “moisturizing” conditioning treatment. These treatments should sit in the hair for 10-20 minutes to be sure the inner layer of the hair is penetrated. You can leave it on longer, but it won’t make a difference. This can also be done out of the shower, and I like to put on a shower cap while it sits on. These can be done as often as you shampoo your hair, but should be done at least every other week. Once a month isn’t enough for coarse hair.

Step 3: Apply a leave in conditioner after the shower. If you are going to blow dry the hair, I recommend using a serum as well.

Step 4: If you want to iron the hair and it is very stubborn, you’ll want to use an iron spray that not only protects it from the heat but also adds hold. Spray this on before ironing for best results.

Step 5: I always recommend using dry shampoo from day 1 to get the most longevity out of your shampoos. You also may want to use a dry conditioner or shine spray during this step to help soften the hair even more.

How often should I wash thick hair?

Thick hair can go much longer between shampoos than fine and thin hair can. This is because there are more hairs per square inch to absorb the natural oils from the scalp. I always recommend going as long as possible in-between shampoos. I have some clients that wash their hair every 2 weeks, but most with thick hair should be able to go at least one week.

Use a dry conditioner from day 1 to get the most longevity. You’ll also want to use a boar bristle brush to really brush the hair and scalp between shampoos. This helps exfoliate the scalp and pulls the oil throughout the hair strand to self-moisturize.

A dry conditioner can be used, particularly on the ends of the hair to make it feel nice and soft.

To learn more about how often you should be shampooing your hair based on your hair type, see my post here.

The best products for thick and coarse hair

Below are my absolute favorite products that I recommend for my thick and coarse haired clients.

***Since I’m sharing the products that I love to use with you guys, this page includes affiliate links to these products. If you take action and purchase a product through clicking one of my links, I’ll make some commission money from it at no extra cost to you. This enables me to be able to continue giving you awesome hair tips, so thanks! ***

• Pravana Intense Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner – This shampoo conditioner combo is ultra moisturizing and penetrates to the innermost layer of the hair.
• Aquage Silkening Shampoo and Conditioner – Perfect for fragile, color treated, coarse, or curly hair. These help to smooth down the hair, reduce frizz, and my favorite aspect, protect against humidity!
• Pravana Intense Therapy Treat Masque – This is a moisturizing conditioning treatment that will penetrate the inner layer of your hair and make it feel so much softer.
• Pravana Intense Therapy Leave In – This is a leave-in conditioner that moisturizes the hair, protects it from heat and UV rays, reduces chlorine effects, and minimizes frizz.
• Aquage Silkening Oil Treatment – While this product has the term “treatment” in the name, I don’t consider it a treatment because you leave it in your hair and not rinse out. It’s used for blow-drying, anti-frizz, anti-humidity, heat protection, and works wonders as a smoothing serum.
• Kenra Thermal Styling Hairspray – This spray is great for use before ironing stubborn coarse hair. It will protect it from the heat as well as add additional hold.
• Olaplex 4D Dry Shampoo – This dry shampoo is light enough to use everyday. It won’t turn your hair white, and reduces oil.
• IGK Good Behavior Dry Conditioner – This is a smoothing spray to be used on dry hair. It will soften coarse hair, tame frizz, add shine, and moisturize dry hair.

What to avoid if you have thick and coarse hair

Throughout this post we’ve talked about what you should be doing if you have thick and coarse hair. Now we’re going to discuss what you shouldn’t be doing.

1. Using cheap products

Cheap hair products typically contain alcohol as an additive. And while alcohol in products may seem to tame your hair, it will certainly dry it out. They can also coat the hair, which makes it even more difficult for moisture to reach that inner layer.

Be sure you’re using quality products that are geared toward providing the hair with moisture.

To learn more about why cheap products are bad, see my post here.

2. One-length cuts

While one-length cuts are beneficial for those with fine hair, they are not recommended for thick and coarse hair. The hair will become way too heavy and lose its shape and movement. Layers are recommended especially for thick hair.

3. Blunt cuts

Similarly to one-length cuts, blunt cuts hinder movement from thick hair. With a blunt cut your thick hair will likely achieve the “triangle” look where it’s flat at your head and bulky on the ends. Since your hair is so heavy, it needs texturizing to create movement in your style.

4. The sun & tanning beds

The sun and tanning beds will not only dry your coarse hair out, but they’ll also fade the color. Just as our skin can become sunburned, so can our hair. Only it doesn’t go back to normal after a few days, the damage is done until the hair is cut off!

Do your best to wear a hat or head wrap if you’re going to be outside all day. To learn more about how the summer can cause damage to your hair, see my post here.

5. Chlorine & salt water

Chlorine and salt water will dry your hair out just as the sun will. It’s best to avoid getting your hair wet in the ocean or the pool to avoid drying it out.

If you do plan on getting it wet, soak it in conditioner BEFORE you go in the water. Do not rinse the conditioner out. Since your hair has absorbed the conditioner, it wont absorb as much of the water.

6. Shampooing too frequently

Shampooing your hair too frequently is stripping it of the natural oil that our hair and scalp need to stay properly moisturized. When you do this, your hair needs to over compensate for the lack of moisture. This can actually cause your hair to become really oily at your scalp, and your ends will become dry and brittle.

7. Excessive heat tools

Using heat tools too frequently will dry it out, even if you’re using heat protectant. Air dry your hair as much as possible and be sure that the the temperature of your iron is turned down.

I have had many complaints from clients that their revlon blowout brush was really damaging their hair. My guess is because it’s made with cheaper materials over quality ceramic or titanium plates. When the metal heats up against your hair it can severely burn it. Be sure to use these as infrequently as possible and always use a thermal protectant.

For more info on heat tools, see my post here.

Conclusion

To wrap things up, thick and coarse hair can become more manageable if your hair is properly layered, texturized, and moisturized.

Layers, texturizing, and thinning is extremely beneficial, and even necessary for thick and coarse hair. It helps to reduce weight, bulk, and tension on the scalp.

Because coarse hair contains a third layer, this hair has the tendency to dry out easier. To combat this, you’ll need to use plenty of moisturizing products as well as avoiding bad habits that can dry it out.

The best styling routine for this hair type is:

1. Shampoo with a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner
2. Use a moisturizing conditioning treatment at least bi-weekly
3. Follow your shower with a leave-in conditioner. If you’re going to blow dry, you should also use a hair serum
4. Use a thermal hairspray before ironing
5. End with a dry shampoo and dry conditioner

Thick hair should be shampooed once a week to once every two weeks. The more you shampoo the more you’ll dry it out. Since you have a lot of hair, it shouldn’t get too oily especially with a dry shampoo.

If you have thick and coarse hair, you should avoid:

1. Using cheap hair products
2. One-length cuts
3. Blunt cuts
4. The sun & tanning beds
5. Chlorine & salt water
6. Shampooing too frequently
7. Excessive heat tools

If you have any further questions for me on this topic, be sure to leave them for me in the comments. And as always, Have A Good Hair Day!