How To Figure Out Your Hair Texture

Don’t know what hair texture you have? That’s what I’m here for! Hair texture often gets confused with hair density. The texture of your hair refers to the diameter of each individual hair strand. It can be fine, medium, or coarse. You can even have a combination of these on one head of hair with finer hair around your hairline, but for the most part you will be predominantly one of the three.

You can test what hair texture you have by taking an individual hair strand between your fingers and rubbing them together.

Can you feel anything?

• Fine Hair – If you dont feel anything at all.
• Medium Hair – If you can feel something but not much.
• Coarse Hair – If you can really feel it and it’s strong.

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Fine Hair Texture

Fine hair is more fragile than the other two hair textures because the hair strand is the smallest in diameter and it doesn’t take much to damage it.

If you have fine hair, you need to take some extra precautions to maintain your hair health and integrity.

How to care for fine hair

• Your iron should be at a low heat, 340-370 degrees at the highest.
• It should always be protected from the sun when exposed for long periods of time. Wrap it up in a hat or use a uv protectant.
• Caution should be taken when coloring, especially when bleaching to avoid over-processing the fine hair.
• Be extremely gentle while brushing to avoid breakage, ESPECIALLY when the hair is wet.
• Be careful while towel drying, blot the hair and never rub. Do not use a large towel to wrap the hair into a turban, only a small towel. Large towels are heavy and will cause breakage at your hairline.
• Hair ties, messy buns, and clips will cause more damage to fine hair, so be cautious and minimize the tension against the hair.

The best hair styles for fine hair

This hair texture generally has a difficult time achieving volume because of its small diameter. If achieving volume is your main concern over the length, I recommend getting layers. Medium to long layers will work best for fine hair. Layers that are too short can actually do the opposite, so make sure there is still some length left on top.

And don’t be afraid if your stylist wants to texturize your hair, she is not thinning it out. Texturizing on the ends will help give you more volume at the root because the ends are not weighing it down.

Mid-length cuts and bobs work extremely well for fine hair. These cuts don’t add extra weight to the style and allow you to get some great volume and body. If you run into the issue of not getting enough volume, check out my post here!

And while wearing fine hair long is totally doable–I personally have long fine hair. Keep in mind that you won’t get as much volume with long hair as you would if it was shorter.

Best hair products for fine hair

If you have fine hair, make sure you’re using lightweight products that will not weigh it down. Professional hair products are a must because cheap brands will create build-up and make it difficult for you to get volume. In this post, I explain the importance of why you should never use drugstore brand products.

One of the biggest mistakes my fine-haired clients make is using too much product. With fine hair, less is more. When I style my fine haired clients in the salon, this is the concoction that I use on them. I suggest using all of these products below together, but only a small amount of each.

• Pureology Pure Volume Shampoo and Conditioner – Volumizing shampoo and conditioner that won’t weigh hair down.
• Aquage Uplifting Foam 8 oz  – This is my all time favorite mousse/root-lifter. Use half a golf-ball sized fluff, apply to your root area and style. If you apply too much or all throughout your hair, you can actually weigh it down. So make sure you are only applying it at the base of your hair.
• Pravana Intense Therapy leave-in – This is a light weight detangler, leave-in conditioner, UV and heat protectant, and is also humidity resistant. Because it is light weight, it won’t weigh your hair down. Just don’t use too much!
• Amika Un.done Texture Spray – A texture spray can be a better alternative to a hair spray if you aren’t looking for hold. This product gives more body to your hair and adds a little grittiness. It is very similar in feeling to a dry shampoo.

Medium Hair Texture

Medium textured hair is not as fragile as fine hair and it doesn’t get damaged quite as easily. This hair may contain a medulla (innermost layer of hair) if it is naturally dark, but not always.

How to care for medium hair texture

• You may need to turn your irons a little higher than the fine haired gals. I recommend 360-390 degrees in order to penetrate the cortex (middle layer of the hair strand) to curl or straighten it.
• If this hair is blonde or has been bleached, then it should always be protected from the sun with a hat or bare minimum a UV protectant.
• It can take a little more abuse than fine hair, but caution should still be taken when bleaching and rough brushing.

Best hair styles for medium textured hair

This hair texture has the most versatility when it comes to styling and cut options because it falls right in the middle!

With medium textured hair you should be able to get a good amount of body, and the nice thing is that you can still wear your hair long without it laying flat on your head or giving you headaches.

Best hair products for medium hair

There are no strict rules when it comes to medium textured hair because it has the best of both worlds. You may want to consider other hair categories when selecting products such as the density, wave pattern, or condition. Here are a few of my favorite basic products that work well with medium hair.

• Pureology Hydrate Shampoo and Conditioner – This shampoo replenishes lost moisture and smells AMAZING. All of my clients ask me what I’m using on them when I use this. I keep it at my backbar and actually use it on 90% of my clients!
• Amika Perk Up Dry Shampoo – Heaven in a can. The best dry shampoo on the market! Doesn’t leave a residue, absorbs oils, and smells great. Spray at your root area, rub in with your fingers, and style. Literally life changing!
• Aquage Sea Salt Texturizing Spray – Creates that “beachy” soft-textured look. Spray to damp hair and dry with fingers or diffuser. Or you can spray it into dry hair and scrunch to give it some “ummph”.
• Amika The Shield – This is a heat-activated spray that protects your hair from heat tools and humidity.
• Amika Un.done Texture Spray – A texture spray can be a better alternative to a hair spray if you aren’t looking for hold. This product gives more body to your hair and a little grittiness. It is very similar in feeling to a dry shampoo.

Coarse Hair Texture

Coarse hair has the thickest diameter of all hair textures because it contains that innermost layer, the medulla. This hair is the strongest of the three hair texture types and is less susceptible to damage.

This hair does not lighten as easily as fine or medium textured hair because there are more, thicker layers in the hair shaft that need to be penetrated in order to change the color.

The good thing about coarse hair is that it’s much stronger and can take a bit more abuse than the other hair textures without being damaged. The down side is that it just takes longer, often times multiple sessions to lighten if you have virgin hair.

How to care for coarse hair

• In order to curl or straighten coarse hair, you’ll probably need to turn your irons a little higher. I recommend 380-410 degrees, but I NEVER suggest turning the iron all the way up. If you are still having a hard time at 410 degrees, then slow down a little with your passes or go over the hair a second time.
• Because of the third layer, coarse hair can be more susceptible to dryness and lost moisture. Make sure you are using a deep conditioner or mask weekly to penetrate all 3 layers.
• This hair texture can be stubborn. Stronger hold hairsprays and styling products are a must with this hair type.

Best hair styles for coarse hair

While coarse hair benefits from being stronger and the ability to take more abuse, it’s not all fun and games. It typically has a mind of its own and doesn’t like to be changed.

If it’s straight, often times it doesn’t want to hold a curl. Use an iron spray before you iron, followed by a hair spray afterwards. Products are listed below.

Depending on the thickness of the hair, headaches can be caused if it is long and heavy. Since there is an extra layer to each individual strand, the hair weighs twice as much as fine hair. This can put a lot of pressure on your scalp.

If you wear your hair long then I suggest adding layers and having it texturized often to reduce the risk of headaches.

Best hair products for coarse hair

Since coarse hair contains a third layer, it’s important to make sure you are getting enough moisture through to the medulla. The third layer is also the reason that the hair is stronger and more stubborn.

I recommend using moisturizing products as well as strong hold styling products.

• Pureology Hydrate Shampoo and Conditioner – This shampoo replenishes lost moisture and smells AMAZING. All of my clients ask me what I’m using on them when I use this. I keep it at my backbar and actually use it on 90% of my clients!
• Pravana Intense Therapy leave-in – This is a light weight detangler, leave-in conditioner, UV and heat protectant, and is also humidity resistant. Talk about jack of all trades. Spray a couple squirts when hair is damp, comb through and style.
• Kenra Thermal Styling Spray– This spray doubles as a thermal protectant as well as a firm hold hairspray. It is perfect for curling coarse hair. Spray it in section by section before you iron.
• Aquage Freezing spray – This is a stronger hold hairspray that provides maximum humidity resistance. Spray 8-10 inches away.
• Pravana Intense Therapy Treat Masque – Since coarse hair has that extra layer, it often needs something a little stronger to moisturize. I recommend using this masque once a week to keep the hair hydrated.

Conclusion

To conclude, understanding your hair texture is helpful when choosing a hairstyle that will work for you as well as what products you should be using.

Fine hair requires extra caution when caring for and coloring because it is the most fragile of all the hair textures. Bobs and mid-length cuts are best for fine hair, and layers will help to add volume to the root.

Medium textured hair has the most versatility because it often has the best of both worlds. It is not as fragile as fine hair and is typically a lot easier to work with than coarse hair. You shouldn’t have any problems getting volume and have the most options when it comes to styling.

Coarse hair has the thickest diameter of all the hair types and is the most stubborn. This hair contains an extra center layer called the medulla. Because of this, it has the tendency to lack moisture and hydration because regular conditioner doesn’t always reach the center of the hair strand. Weekly deep conditioners are helpful to properly moisturize coarse hair.

Becoming aware of your hair type may give an explanation for why a product or style works well for others, but not for you. No head of hair is the same, and each requires different care and styling products to make everyday a good hair day.

If you have any further questions for me on this topic, be sure to leave them for me in the comments! And as always, Have A Good Hair Day!

Last updated: 06/19/2023