Will A Razor Cut Be Good For My Hair?

Razor cuts! Some of us love them, and some of us hate them. As a hairstylist, I’ve had some clients actively seek me out because I do razor cuts, while others refuse to let me use one on their hair. Why are there such polarizing views when it comes to razor cuts? When is a razor cut a good choice for a haircut? In this post I respond to common questions often asked about the razors that hairstylists use and who razor cuts are best for.

When I had a bob, my hair would only lay properly with a proper razor cut. But with long hair, I prefer it to be cut with scissors! It’s important to know that not only certain haircuts will do better with a razor than other cuts, but certain hair types will as well.

What are the benefits of a razor cut?

Before we get into who they’re best for, let’s first talk about why hairstylists will use a razor to cut hair in the first place. There are some clear benefits to using one, or else we wouldn’t ever opt for a razor over scissors.

Razors are used to add texture, volume, and movement to the hair. When hair is cut with a razor the ends are cut at an angle, which creates a bevel on the end of the hair strand. When hair is cut with scissors, the ends are cut perpendicular, or like a cross.

The hair that has a bevel on the ends has the ability to achieve more volume throughout the day because the hair can actually climb up the other strands of hair.

The hair cut with scissors has a harder time balancing on the other hairs, so it tends to lay flatter. So when done properly, razor cuts can be a game changer for a hairstyle that requires texture and volume.

What is the razor that hair dressers use?

When we say razor or razor cuts, we don’t mean clipper cuts. And we typically are not referring to a straight razor used to shave beards either!

The razor that hairstylists use is also referred to as a “feather razor.” This razor has a guard on it so it’s basically impossible to cut yourself with unlike a straight razor which is lacking the finger guard.

We change out the blade after each use so that it is freshly sharp and sanitary for each client.

Watch my Youtube Video on razor cuts below:

Is it better to cut hair with a razor or scissors?

So this is a bit of a trick question, and the answer is both! The choice of tool is dependent on the hair type and the style desired. A razor will give a more textured, lived-in, and voluminous look while scissors will give a more blunt and uniform look.

If you like blunt lines and a smooth and uniform style, then a razor cut is probably not for you.

But if you like texture, a messy look, or lots of volume, then you should certainly consider a razor cut.

Often times I will actually use both a razor and scissors in the same haircut to get the texture where we need it but also keeping the haircut uniform and controlled. So I don’t want to say one is better than the other because they are both great tools. It’s like they say, apples to oranges!

Should a razor be used on wet or dry hair?

Razor cuts should always be done on wet, not dry hair. When the hair is dry, the razor can actually frizz the ends of the hair and cause breakage or split ends.

It is important to make sure the hair is wet, not damp before being cut with a razor. I spray my clients with water often during a razor cut to ensure an even porosity in the hair.

This is why it’s important that the stylist knows exactly what they are doing and they’re skilled with using a razor to cut hair. If it’s not done properly the hair can in fact become damaged. Most people that hate razors have likely had a razor cut from an unskilled stylist that wasn’t careful when using the razor, which brings us to our next topic.

Do razor cuts damage hair, give you split ends, or make your hair frizzy?

This is another trick question, because if not used properly, razors can be bad for your hair. But when used properly, they do not cause any damage.

As I mentioned earlier, the hair must be very wet and the razor needs to be fresh and sharp. A dull razor on dry or damp hair is a recipe for disaster and can damage the hair or cause split ends.

Now, I frequently use a razor when cutting my clients hair; but not everyone is a good fit for a razor cut. Some hair takes great to a razor cut, and others not so much.

Curly hair, or hair that is prone to fizziness does not take well to razor cuts. Razor cuts produce more texture in the hair which is something that curly or over-processed hair already has a ton of. So using a razor on curly hair can make the hair appear frizzier than it already is, due to the added texture.

What hair type do razor cuts work best for?

Razor cuts will work best on healthy hair that is smooth and looking to add volume. This could be fine or coarse hair, as well as thin or thick hair. Straight and wavy hair are also good candidates, but curly hair is not.

Since the razor will add volume and texture, any healthy hair that is looking to achieve volume or texture will do very well with a razor.

Shorter haircuts will also do better with a razor than longer cuts will. This is because longer cuts typically need more split end control on the ends than shorter cuts do, and will do better with scissors. Shorter cuts will need the texture on the ends for the pieceyness and volume required for a pixie, bob, or shag.

• Healthy hair
• Hair looking to add volume
• Fine hair
• Coarse hair
• Thin hair
• Thick hair
• Straight hair
• Wavy hair
• Shorter cuts (pixies, bobs, & shags)

If you aren’t sure what your hair type is, see my 4 step process to learn your hair texture, density, wave pattern, and condition to determine if a razor cut will be good for your hair.

What hair types should avoid razor haircuts?

As we briefly mentioned, there are certain hair types that should avoid razor cuts. This would be curly hair types, or hair that is already damaged or has split ends. Since the razor will be increasing volume and texture, these hair types can appear more frizzy and unmanageable with a razor cut.

Longer cuts will also not benefit much from a razor cut. This is because as the hair gets longer, your focus becomes more on managing split ends than achieving volume. You shouldn’t cut split ends with a razor, as the razor can make them worse.

• Curly hair
• Frizzy hair
• Damaged hair
• Over-processed hair
• Hair with split ends
• Hair looking to decrease volume and texture
• Long cuts

Have you had a bad razor cut?

I’ve had several new clients express their fear for me to use a razor on their hair. It typically goes something like this:

“Oh, I’ve had a stylist use a razor on me before and she butchered me! My hair was all different lengths and it was the worst haircut I’ve ever had. I’m still trying to grow out the trauma from it.”

There are a number of things that could go wrong when using a razor, from cutting the hair dry, to using a dull blade, to over-texturizing, to misunderstanding the goals in the haircut.

In this case, the stylist that performed the cut probably didn’t know what she was doing. I typically don’t like to use the razor while texturizing the hair because it can take huge chunks out and cause problems in the foundation of the cut.

Razors can be used for texturizing or interior layers, but the stylist must be trained well before attempting this. I personally use regular scissors for my dry texturizing because you have more control over the hair that is being removed.

It’s best to only go to a stylist that is skilled in razor cutting. I suggest finding a salon that specializes in razor cuts or getting a referral from someone that has specifically had a good razor cut from the stylist.

Conclusion

Razor cuts are ideal for achieving more volume and texture in your haircut than scissors will. This is because a bevel is achieved on the hair shaft when cut with a razor. When cut with scissors, a perpendicular blunt cut is achieved.

Hairstylists use a special “feather razor” when doing this cuts that has a guard on it so that only the hair is cut. This is not to be confused with clippers or a straight razor.

The hair should always be cut when wet with a brand new sharp razor to avoid damaging the hair or creating split ends. When cut properly, the hair will not become damaged. But if used improperly, the hair can become damaged, split, or frizzy.

Razor cuts work best for healthy, smooth hair that is looking to achieve volume. They’re best for short to medium length cuts on any hair texture or density, but not wave pattern. Razor cuts should be avoided on curly, frizzy prone hair or hair that is damaged or over-processed.

It’s important that the stylist is skilled in razor cutting to ensure a successful razor cut.

If you still aren’t sure if a razor cut would be a good choice for you, I recommend finding a stylist in your area that either specializes in razor cuts or that is known for giving great razor cuts, and giving it a shot! If you don’t like it, it is only hair and will grow out. But it’s definitely worth giving a shot if you’re looking for more volume and texture!

Hopefully this answered some questions you may have had regarding razors and razor cuts. If it didn’t leave them for me in the comments! Be sure to subscribe below to make everyday a good hair day!

Last updated 10/01/2024