Comparing Hi Lift, Hair Color, And Bleach For Best Results

Wondering what hair color type is best for you? In this post I’ll give an overview of hi lift, traditional hair color, and bleach. I’ll compare each of these color types to help you choose which is best for you and your situation. Keep in mind that all of these hair color options are permanent.

If you’re interested in learning the differences between permanent, demi permanent, and semi permanent see my post here. You may also find it helpful to read my post on the level system for a better understanding prior to reading this post.

To watch my video comparison of these hair color types, check out my Youtube video below:

Before we dive into comparing them, let’s go over each hair color type individually.

Traditional hair color overview

When I say traditional hair color, I’m referring to basic permanent hair color that comes in a tube. This color gives you approximately 1-3 levels of lift, and it also deposits tone, or the shade of the hair color. Since it only gives 1-3 levels of lift, the main goal of traditional color is on the tone, or shade of the hair rather than lightening.

It’s important to note that traditional hair color will only lighten virgin hair. It cannot lighten hair that has been previously colored before, though it can still darken hair that has been previously colored.

It also provides gray coverage depending on the shade chosen. Typically you’ll need to add a ratio of Natural, Neutral, or Gold into your color formula based on what percentage of gray you have. If you don’t, you may end up with a bright color on the gray hairs. This is especially true when coloring the hair red.

Traditional hair color can be mixed with 5-50 volume developer strength. The higher the strength, the more levels of lift you’ll achieve. If you’re looking to brighten a hair color, a higher level of developer would be a better option than a lower level. But if you’re only looking to deposit or darken, then a lower level is a better option. 10 or 20 volume is usually the standard developer choice when using traditional hair color.

Traditional hair color typically processes anywhere from 30-45 minutes, and then it stops processing.

Hi lift overview

Hi lift is like traditional hair color except it has more lightening power. The goal of hi lift is to lighten the hair and deposit tone at the same time. It can give you up to 5 levels of lift, though some lines can only provide up to 4. You also wouldn’t choose a hi lift if your goal is to darken or deposit.

Similarly to traditional color, hi lift will only lighten virgin hair, not previously colored hair. If you apply hi lift on previously colored hair, it will not do anything unless the color is light enough already to take on the tone of the hi lift.

Hi lift can give you some gray coverage, but you need to be careful what tone you are using. This can get tricky if your gray is very salt and peppery, as the results will not likely come out even. If you use an Ash high lift to combat the underlining pigment (we’ll talk more about underlining pigment later) in the pepper, then your salt could turn blue or green since it does not contain the same underlining pigment as in the pepper. This is different with each line, so it’s best to do your research if you have salt and pepper hair.

You’ll usually want to use a higher developer when using hi lift for best results, though that is not always necessary. The developer strength you’ll use will be dependent on your starting level as well as your goal. 40 volume is usually the standard choice when using hi lift color.

Hi lift typically processes for 45 minutes up to an hour and a half before it stops processing.

Bleach overview

Bleach is a completely different chemical than the last two hair color types, and it can provide up to 9 levels of lift. The goal of bleach is to lighten the hair, it does not deposit any tone. So you would not opt to use bleach if you are wanting to go darker or deposit.

Bleach can lighten through previously colored hair, though it is harder to do than lightening through virgin hair and may take multiple sessions to reach the desired results. When bleach lightens the hair, it exposes the underlining pigment of the hair (talked about in the next section). Because of this, you typically need to tone the hair afterwards to deposit the desired shade, making this a double process.

Bleach can alter gray hair, though it is almost pointless on totally white hair since the point of bleach is to “decolorize” the hair, and white hair is already decolorized. That being said, it can be helpful to quickly open the cuticle of white hair so that it’s more receptive to color. This can be useful for hair that is “stubborn” or resistant.

The developer that you’ll use with bleach is dependent on the hair and the speed at which you’d like it to process. To learn more about what developer to use with bleach, see my post and Youtube video here where I test out different developer strengths on different hair samples.

Bleach typically processes for around an hour, though it is important to rinse it off because the hair can become damaged if left on for too long. That being said, if you are looking for more lift, you can apply more bleach right over top of the previous bleach to continue processing after the initial processing has stopped.

Underlining pigment overview

Underlining pigment is the warm color that is exposed when the hair begins to lighten. The underlining pigment is dependent on what the starting level of the hair is. It’s important to understand underlining pigment whenever formulating any hair color type. This will help you to correct unwanted tones in order to land on the exact tone that you’re looking for.

Since the underlining pigment in a level 6 is orange/yellow, then you need to use a color with a blue/violet base in order to counteract the unwanted underlining pigment. Essentially, this is how toning the hair works.

Study the chart below to learn what underlining pigment lives in each level as well as what tone you need to neutralize the underlining pigment.

Traditional hair color vs. bleach

Traditional color and bleach are completely different chemicals and have completely different goals. The main goal of traditional color is to deposit tone, while the goal of bleach is to remove tone.

If you have previously colored hair and want to go lighter, you must use bleach. There is no other option.

But if you have virgin hair and only want to go a few levels lighter for a more sun-kissed look, then traditional color can be a good option for you.

Traditional color is also much less damaging than bleach is. It’s not likely that you would experience damage from traditional hair color alone, while it is extremely likely that you may experience damage from bleach.

Hi lift vs. bleach

Bleach and hi lift are similar in that they both provide lift to virgin hair, but ultimately they are two completely different chemicals. Hi lift will only lift virgin hair, while bleach will lift both virgin and color treated hair.

Hi lift will also deposit tone to the hair, while bleach only exposes the underlining pigment. You’d need to go back and tone the hair if you want to correct the underlining pigment when using bleach.

If your goal is maximum lift with or without previous color, then bleach should be your choice.

If your goal is to lighten virgin hair to the lightest you can without risking damaging the hair with bleach, then hi lift should be your choice.

Remember that it’s not likely that your hair would become damaged with hi lift, but it is very likely that you would damage your hair with bleach.

Traditional hair color vs. hi lift

Traditional color and hi lift are relatively similar in that they both deposit tone, do not lighten previously colored hair, and are both much less damaging than bleach is.

The difference is the level of lift that they each provide. If you are looking for maximum lift on your virgin hair without risking damaging your hair with bleach, then hi lift should be your choice.

If you are looking to deposit only or only wanting a very slight lift, then traditional color should be your choice.

Which option should I choose?

Traditional color, hi lift, and bleach are all options when lightening your hair. To decide which is best for you, you’ll need to consider a number of factors:

1. Is your hair virgin or color treated?
2. How many levels of lift are desired?
3. Are you looking for least damaging option?

• If your hair is color treated and/or you are looking for maximum lift, bleach should be your choice.
• If you are only looking for 1-3 levels of lift on virgin hair, you can choose traditional color.
• If you are looking for 4-5 levels of lift on virgin hair with the least damage, then hi lift should be your choice

Conclusion

Traditional color:

• Only provides 1-3 levels of lift
• Only lifts virgin hair
• Goal is to deposit tone
• Not damaging

Hi lift:

• Provides 4-5 levels of lift
• Only lifts virgin hair
• Goal is to lighten and deposit tone
• Not damaging

Bleach:

• Provides up to 9 levels of lift
• Lifts virgin AND color treated hair
• Goal is to remove color only, not deposit tone
• Can be damaging

I hope you found this helpful! If you have any further questions on comparing these hair color types, leave them for me in the comments! Make sure you subscribe below to make everyday a good hair day!